Route through Croatia in 12 days

Croatia is an incredible destination that combines historic cities, breathtaking natural parks and paradisiacal islands. In 12 days you can make a very complete route through the best of the country, starting from the capital, Zagreb to the iconic Dubrovnik passing through essential places such as Split, or Plitvice Lakes.

In this itinerary we will tell you what to see at each stop, practical tips and our personal experience. We also give you recommendations about transportation, accommodation and less touristic routes that are worthwhile. If you are planning a trip to Croatia, read on because we tell you all about it.

Route through Croatia from Zagreb

First of all we leave you a list of what was our route through Croatia by car:

• Zagreb
• Zagreb - Gospić
• Krka National Park - Šibenik - Primošten - Split
• Split - Trogir
• Brač
• Dubrovnik
• Ston - Mljet (Salt Lakes Route)
• Mljet (Montokuc Route) - Polače
• Zadar
• Plitvice National Park - Rastoke
• Rastoke - Zagreb
• Zagreb

This route is quite intense in terms of car hours and places visited in the same day. We had to fly roundtrip from Zagreb We planned the route to see some cities from north to south up to Dubrovnik, and others to see on the way back to Zagreb. Below we leave you the route on google maps so that you can see the travel times in detail.

How to get to Croatia

From Spain, there are several ways to get to Croatia, although the availability of direct flights Much depends on the city of departure and the time of year.

The most comfortable option is to fly directly to Croatia. There are direct flights from Madrid and Barcelona a Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Split especially in high season (summer). From other cities such as Valencia, Malaga, Seville, Bilbao or Alicante sometimes there are direct flights to Dubrovnik or Split but they are usually seasonal. In the off-season, you will most likely have to make stopover in a European city such as Munich, Frankfurt, Amsterdam or Vienna.

In our case, we fly round trip to Zagreb as it was the only direct option from Malaga. However, if you are going to travel through the country from north to south (or the other way around), we recommend fly to Zagreb and return from Dubrovnik, or the other way around.. This will save you many hours of driving.

Another alternative is to fly to a nearby airport in another country and from there to enter Croatia by land Venice is a good option if you want to explore the northern part of the country, as from there there are direct buses to Istria or Zagreb. You can also fly to Ljubljana (Slovenia), Budapest (Hungary) or Belgrade (Serbia) and from there take a rental car or a bus to Croatia. We do not think this is the best option, only recommended if you have many days and want to visit another part of Europe.

Day 1: Zagreb

Our flight arrived at Zagreb at night so we only made a short stop to sleep and rent the car for our route through Croatia the next morning. We stayed in a town that is right next to the airport called Velika GoricaVery quiet and with typical houses with reddish roofs.

Day 2: Route Mount Velebit - Smiljan - Gospić

After a good 2h drive from Zagreb, we started the day with a hiking route through the Mount Velebit The area was quite wild and little traveled. In some sections, the undergrowth was so closed that it seemed that no one had passed through there in a long time. Along the way, we saw a woodpecker and an exaggerated amount of cicadas, which kept making noise. The last part of the climb got tricky, with a stretch where we had to climb over rocks for quite a while. But the effort was worth it: from the top you could see the islands off the coast, a very nice panoramic view. In total, it took about 4-5 hours to complete the route.

We were surprised by how green the area was, with a landscape that reminded us a lot of northern Spain: scattered houses, fields, cattle grazing... Very different from the typical image of the Croatian coast.

After the hike, we made a stop at Smiljan the town where he was born Nikola Tesla. As we are telecoms, it was fun for us to visit his house, but we have to say that it is not worth the detour to see it. Basically, it's a house in the middle of nowhere, inside an enclosure with a small museum and an interpretation center. We took a quick walk around without paying admission (no one asked for it) and we did not think it was worth the price (10€).

In the afternoon we arrived at Gospic where we stayed overnight. It was the cheapest and most authentic village of all the ones we visited in Croatia (they almost didn't speak English there). It is a quiet place, with small mountain style houses and no tourism.

For dinner, we tried the Hary Burger Bar We had breakfast at the restaurant, a place with big and cheap hamburgers, but don't expect anything gourmet. The next day, we had breakfast at Slastičarnica Specijal where we tested the burek a kind of stuffed filo pastry, very typical in Croatian breakfasts. The most common is the cheese one, although there are other variants.

Day 3: Krka National Park - Šibenik - Primošten - Split

Our third day on the Croatian route was spent sightseeing on our way to Split: the Krka National Park, Š ibenik y Primošten.

We started the day exploring the Krka National Park known for its waterfalls and for having been, until recently, one of the few natural parks where you could swim. The route is simple and very short, with wooden walkways that run through the park and allow you to see the waterfalls from different angles. Although the site is very beautiful, if you only have time or budget for a national park in Croatia, we recommend Plitvice which we found most spectacular. Tickets cost 40€ general and 25€ for student. If you want more details about the visit we recommend you to visit our post about the Krka National Park, and if you want to make the visit from Split, we recommend you to book this one excursion from your hotelwhich includes a boat ride and everything.

• 👉 Guide to visit Krka National Park

Our next stop was Sibenik A small coastal town with a lot of charm but with a big problem: parking was a horror. We drove around several times before getting a parking space, and in the end we had to leave the car a bit far from the old town. In spite of that, the walk was worth it. The historical center is small but nice, with cobblestone streets churches and sea views. It is not as touristy as other places on the Croatian coast, so you can stroll calmly and enjoy the atmosphere without large crowds.

As a last stop before arriving at Splitwe approached Primošten another coastal town, although in this case we only made a quick visit. We took a short walk through its old town and then we went straight to Plaža Luka a beach with crystal clear waters where we were able to refresh ourselves after an intense day. We were tired, so we just lay down for a while and enjoyed the sea before continuing our trip. It is not one of the most famous beaches in Croatia, but we found it a perfect stop to rest without too many people around.

Day 4: Split - Trogir

In the morning we made a free tour of the historic center of Split This is an option that we highly recommend if you want to learn about the history of the city and Croatia in general. We found it super interesting because, in addition to telling you about the Roman period and the famous Diocletian's Palace They also talk about the former Yugoslavia, the war with Bosnia and other recent topics that help to better understand the country. After the tour, we had lunch at Fife a restaurant recommended by our guidebook. For Split, we found it cheap and the food was very tasty.

Before leaving Split, we passed through the local market (Gradska tržnica) The market is open every day where you can buy souvenirs, fruit and other local products. Then, in the afternoon, we visit Trogir A small town but with a lot of charm. Its historical center is like a island connected by a bridge to land The town has narrow streets, stone buildings and a very pleasant atmosphere for strolling. There are several souvenir stands And, if you go by car, you will see that paid parking lots go up in price the closer you get to the center. If you do not have a car or you do not feel like driving, you can also make a excursion from Split including Trogir and Kliss and they pick you up at your hotel.

To finish the day, we went for a while to Kašjuni Beach a pebble beach (like most in Croatia) with a beach club where you can have a drink. It was recommended to us because it tends to be less crowded as it is more frequented by locals, although it was still quite crowded. We arrived late and parked without a problem, but it looks like it can be chaotic during rush hour. In fact, there were cars parked on the side of the road and people who went directly by cab to avoid the parking problem.

Day 5: Brač

This day is dedicated to getting to know Brač one of the most famous islands in Croatia. We hesitated a lot about whether to stay overnight or just do a day trip, but in the end we decided to spend the night there, and we think it was a success. At night there is a very good atmosphere, lively but not crowded, with people strolling, full terraces and a much more relaxed pace than in other tourist areas of the country.

If you are one of those who prefer comfort, you can make this vintage yacht excursion from Splitwhich includes lunch and beverages visiting Brač and Solta in the same day.

In our case, we took the ferry with the car and in a few minutes we were on our way 50 minutes we arrive at Supetar the main port of the island. There we took the opportunity to walk around the historical center We went for a walk along the harbor and saw the beach. There were also quite a few souvenir stalls, although we did not find them very different from those in other areas of the Croatian coast.

We then headed for Bol the town where we were staying. The drive took us about 40 minutes crossing the island on winding but well paved roads. We stayed in a on (rooms in private homes), in the home of a very nice Italian lady who welcomed us as if we were family. We decided to stay here in order to be able to walk to the famous Zlatni Rat.

In the afternoon, we walked to Zlatni Rat also known as the Golden Horn beach one of the most famous in Croatia. It is a tongue of sand that changes shape with the currents and the wind, and wind is precisely what was not lacking. In fact, there were several windsurfing schools So it seems to be a common place for this kind of sports. There is also a nudist area and many beach bars where you can have a drink.

For more details on how to get to Brač, must-sees, where to eat or where to stay, visit our article what to see in Brač.

Day 6: Dubrovnik

In the morning we returned from Brac a Split ferry and, once on the mainland, we took the car to head for Dubrovnik. The journey is long, about 3-4 hours The views of the coast make it quite bearable. We arrived in the afternoon and went straight to our lodgingwhich was in the port area where the cruise ships dock. We chose that area because the prices in the center were very high and almost no lodging was available parking. From there, there is a bus that in 15 minutes drops you off in the old town, so it was quite a convenient option. For more details about the buses, please visit our post What to see in Dubrovnik.

As soon as we arrived at the center, we made a free tour to get to know the key points of the city and some of the locations of Game of Thrones. They showed us places like the Lovrijenac Fortress (which in the series is the Red Fortress), the Stairway of the Jesuits (where the famous "Walk of Shame" was recorded) and the Pile Gate.

👀 GoT Curiosity
The producers of the series paid 150 per day per window neighbors living on the stoop to keep their shutters closed during filming.

What we liked the least about Dubrovnik was the tourist that everything was inside the walls: expensive restaurants and bars, souvenir stores on every corner, and practically everything in between no authentic local site. Still, the city is impressive and well worth a visit.

Day 7: Ston - Mljet (Salt Lakes Route)

Before arriving at Prapratno to catch the ferry to Mljet, we made a brief stop at Ston a town known for its medieval walls and its salinas. We took a quick walk through the center and saw part of the wall. If you can visit Ston We highly recommend it as we found it very special and less crowded than other places.

The ferry ride takes about 50 minutes and as soon as we arrived at the island we went directly to Pomena where we were staying. We chose this village because it is the closest to one of the main entrances of the Mljet National Park We wanted to take a break from the car and from Pomena you can literally walk in. The hotel was fineThe hotel was so close to nature that we found some bugs in the room. Nothing serious, but if you are very picky about insects, keep this in mind.

As is the case with many other tourist attractions in Croatia, the entrance to Mljet National Park We found it quite expensive for what it is. In fact, it gives the feeling that you could enter without paying, although we did take it out because we were going to stay several days and we wanted to visit it well. To visit the park, there are two options: do it on foot o rent a bike to walk the dirt roads that surround the lakes. The terrain is completely flat and the scenery is beautiful, with turquoise blue waters surrounded by vegetation.

That first day we did the classic salt lakes route which we tell you about in more detail in our article on Mljet. What you need to know about Mljet is that, even though there is tourism, the environment is super quiet. At night, people simply dine in restaurants and little else, it is not a place to come to party. In addition, the restaurants in Mljet are very expensive So if you are on a tight budget, we recommend you to bring some food with you or check where to eat to avoid spending a lot of money.

Day 8: Mljet (Montokuc Route) - Polače

The next day we continued our tour of the Mljet National Park and in the morning we made the route to Mount Montokuc a hike that offers incredible views of the Salt Lakes. We followed a Wikiloc track that went by the Veliki Gradac viewpoint A rock ledge lower than the main summit, from where the two lakes are perfectly visible. The route itself is not difficult, but the heat and humidity make it quite hard. If you do it, we recommend get up early We went at noon and ended up sweating it out.

At the top of Montokuc there is a wooden shelter/gazebo where we stopped to eat and rest. It's a great place to take a break because there is shade and benches to sit on while enjoying the views. After descending, we made a stop at Soline which are literally four houses and little else. Not much to see, but we spent some time browsing around before returning to Pomena.

In the afternoon, we went to Polače where we saw their Roman ruins We went to the beach, which is quite well preserved. Then we looked for a place to bathe and ended up at the town beach which surprised us because it was very wild and full of sea urchins which made us think that it is not usually very crowded.

Day 9: Zadar

After a journey of 3 hours by car from Prapratno we arrived at Zadar. We parked in a paid parking right at the entrance of the old area, which was very cheap. There was a free one nearby, but we preferred to pay a little to leave the car in an enclosed and guarded place. We found it to be the best option so we didn't have to worry while exploring the city.

We took a walk through the historical center making a free tourWe were able to see the main points of interest. What most caught our attention was the Sea Organ an instrument that sounds with the movement of the waves. It is a very cool place to see the sunset as the sun sets over the sea, but it is also very touristic and overcrowded so you have to be patient. Even so, it is worth spending some time listening to the sound of water transformed into music.

We particularly liked Zadar because, although it has tourism, we found it to be more calm and authentic than other Croatian cities. If you are looking for a less crowded place than Split or Dubrovnik, we highly recommend it. In addition, it has a open-air market with fresh and local products. It is a perfect place to come back to try the borek Croatian food that we loved.

Day 10: Plitvice National Park - Rastoke

We arrived at the Plitvice National Park and we left the car at the official parking which is quite expensive. If you don't mind walking a little, we recommend you park outside to save you that money. Tickets are also expensive: 40 for the normal rate and 20 for the student rate. They didn't look too closely at the license, though. So if you have one, even if it's a little out of date... you know. You can buy tickets at official website.

Within the park, there are several routes that combine sections on foot, by boat and by park bus. We did the Route C the most typical one, which runs through both the upper lakes as well as lower lakes. It is a simple route and the hiking part was a bit short. If you like walking, you might want to do a longer one. As the food inside the park is expensive and does not have much variety, we recommend bring sth. in from outside.

Plitvice is a essential in Croatia. The lakes have a amazing turquoise blue color and the setting is spectacular. If you can only visit one national park in the country, this is it. The only bad thing is that it is overcrowded However, as it is so large, it is only noticeable at some points where the roads become narrower and people accumulate.

We then went to Rastoke a village with wooden houses and water mills. We stayed at Slunjwhich is next door (although there is a considerable climb down to Rastoke). The best are the views from the bridge with the river literally flowing through the town and forming small waterfalls. A very nice place to end the day.

Day 11: Rastoke - Zagreb

In the morning we went back to see Rastoke and we were surprised at how different that it looked like during the day compared to the night. If at night we found it to be a fairy tale and very local In the morning, everything changed: tourists everywhere (mostly Asians with organized tours) and a part of the village closed with paid entrance. We did not expect it and we had the feeling that they had turned it into a tourist attraction rather than an authentic village.

They have marked routes to tour the surrounding area, but at one point we came upon a bridge closed for which it was also necessary to pay entrance fee. It seemed like a rip-off, so we turned around and looked for another way to get to the same area without paying. In the end, following a path near the road, we managed to get quite close without having to go through the cashier.

Despite this, Rastoke is a beautiful town. The wooden houses with the river passing underneath and forming waterfalls creating an incredible landscape. But we were left with the feeling that they have approached it badly for tourism, charging for things they should not. A pity, because the site has a lot of charm.

In the afternoon, we took the car and drove towards Zagreb where we would stay one more day before flying back.

Day 12: Zagreb

For our last day in Croatia, we left the rental car on the outskirts of Zagreb and we took a cab to the center. We spent the day walking around and visiting the most important points of the city, which surprised us because it has a very different atmosphere from the rest of Croatia, more Central European than Mediterranean. We recommend as always to make a free tour or a guided tour of Zagreb to know the most important points and the history of the place.

• 👉 What to see in Zagreb in one day

Some of the stops we enjoyed the most were:

• War Tunnel A very long tunnel built during the Second World War. We found it impressive and it was also very cold inside bitter cold which is appreciated in summer.
• Ivana Tkalčića Street the area with the most bars and restaurants of the city. There is a lot of atmosphere, both tourists and locals, and it is a good place to have dinner or a drink.
• St. Mark's Church The building is located in the upper part of Zagreb, with its characteristic colorful roof.

To go to the airport there is a bus that takes you from the center, but in the end we took the Uber because we found it more comfortable and, in addition, quite cheap.

If you want to read other articles ideal for your trip that complement Route through Croatia in 12 days you can visit our posts about Croatia.